
Travel north in July and you may hear breathing before you see curved white backs turning through cobalt water. Beluga whales crowd the estuary with curiosity, approaching Zodiacs and shorelines. Autumn pivots to polar bear season; habitats change and safety protocols rule. Dress in layers that respect windchill. At night, step outside and look up—auroras stitch neon veils that sometimes ripple like migrating geese; patience rewards the watcher who lingers quietly.

The Polar Bear Express carries families, supplies, and stories along muskeg and river crossings. Pack snacks and respect the unhurried cadence; this line exists foremost for residents. Detour to Moose Factory with local guides who interpret history from Cree perspectives, visiting trading posts and healing lodges that shaped generations. Support artisans directly. You’ll leave with beadwork, smoked fish memories, and, more importantly, a sense that travel here is guesthood requiring care and reciprocity.
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